To begin, we are going to want to expose your Bat Caddy’s controller. We do this by removing four Philips head screws located directly underneath your Bat Caddy’s battery tray. The four Philips head screws adhere the black metal controller compartment cover to the chassis of the Bat-Caddy. Here is a tutorial for reference:
Once the four Philips head screws are removed, you will expose your Bat Caddy’s controller. In this compartment, there will be two connections that appear identical and one that is smaller. The smaller one is for the wiring harness or the main power cable of your Bat-Caddy. The other two are going to each of your motors. We will want to focus on the two that are going to your motors.
You may have some electrical tape adhering the connections, which will need to be removed before you’ll be able to disconnect your controller from your motor. You may also find this electrical tape is heat shrink wrap; this is just more heavy-duty electrical tape. You can cut this away with scissors or make a small incision and tear it away by hand. Once the tape is removed, we’ll want to disconnect the controller from the motor connections.
Now, we will want to locate the Allen wrench bolts set in the chassis tubular portion. These bolts are what keep your motors adhered to the chassis. There will be two on each side of the chassis, two for each motor, and they should be on either side of your Bat Caddy’s battery tray. Sometimes they are positioned on the underside of the cart, and others are positioned parallel with the battery tray. We will want to focus our attention on the two Allen wrench motor bolts on the side, which has the motor that we’re replacing. Now we will remove these Allen wrench bolts.
Once the Allen wrench bolts are removed, your motor will be loose in the chassis; you should be able to move it around by hand. It won’t, however, be able to come free out of the housing yet. You will find that the motor wiring cannot come through the hole in the chassis as is. It is attached to a black plastic block that will not fit through the hole provided by the chassis. So, we will need to remove each of these wires before proceeding. If you’re confident the motor wiring and/or motor cannot be salvaged, then you can cut the motor wiring away to save time. However, if there is any doubt or this is a warranty replacement, you will want to remove the wiring from the block. As you will have to do the inverse of this upon installing your new motor, it would be educational to do this step. Please note the order of the motor wiring, as if they are not reinstalled in the same fashion, your Bat-Caddy may not function as it’s designed. Typically, the black wire is on the clip side of the black plastic block.
Each of your motor’s wires has a metal spade on the end of the wire, and each of these spades has a metal clip toward the bottom of the spade. This clip protrudes out and is what keeps each of the wires securely into the block. We will need to push this clip back in before removing each wire with ease. We do this using a precision flat-head screwdriver and locating this clip in the black plastic block. The clip can be difficult to see; I would recommend using a flashlight to find it. Once located, you will use the flat head screwdriver to push the spade clip back in; once the clip is in, each wire can be pulled out of the bottom of the black plastic block and should pull with relative ease. Once the block is removed from the wiring, you will easily remove the motor from the Bat-Caddy chassis.
Once removed, you will likely notice that your motor has two black rings on it. You will want to remove these rings to transplant them onto your replacement motor. While these aren’t vital, they ask as dust caps and help prevent moisture from penetrating the motor house. They also will help to keep the motors quiet. There will be one ring toward the axle and the back middle portion of the motor. You will want to note the positioning for your transplant.
You will also notice a black plastic sprocket on the axle of your motor; this will need to be removed for transplant onto your new motor as well. Only after the axle pin has been installed, however. Here is the sprocket for reference:
Take your new motor and transplant the black rings onto your new motor. You will need to look inside the motor chassis and identify that same hole, which you removed the wiring of the faulty motor. Your new motor wiring will have to go into this same hole. I’ve found that if you bend the wiring at an angle, you can aim for the hole and pull the wiring through once the spades are visible. However, to each his/her own here. If you find it’s easier to use a wire or line to help guide the wire through the hole, go for it. Once the wiring is through the hole, you will put your motor into the tubular chassis of the Bat-Caddy. Because of the rings, this is a tight fit, you will need to wiggle the motor a little bit, and there is a chance the wiring can shift a bit. However, once the motor is in position, you will want to note the positioning of the axle on the motor on the opposite side. These motors can be set in two different positions, and you’ll want to make sure your new motor matches the old position. Once you’re confident the motor is in the correct position, you should see the Allen wrench bolt holes in the chassis from earlier; these two holes should align with the two Allen wrench threaded holes in the motor. Once aligned, you can reinsert your Allen wrench bolts.
Now it’s time to reinsert your motor wiring into the black plastic block. You will want to do this in the same order as they were removed initially. Please use the original motor wiring as a reference for the order. You will need to locate the spade clip on each of the motor wiring spade end pieces. It will likely be pressed in, so it may be difficult to see. It again is toward the bottom of the spade itself, located in the middle. Once found, you will need to take your precision screwdriver and gently press it out. It doesn’t need to protrude a ton. There is a female groove located in the black plastic block for each of these clips; you will need to locate them for reference, as the clips of each wire will need to be inserted accordingly. These grooves in the black plastic block are typically located on the clip side of the block and wire.
Once you have your wiring inserted correctly. You can connect both of your motor connections to your controller. Now it’s time to test. You will want to use your remote to test, and as long as the functions are working as they should, you can reinsert the black metal controller cover using your Philips head screws that you removed initially. If your Bat-Caddy isn’t operating as it should, then you will likely need to disconnect your motor connections and exchange them. This should resolve the issue.
From here, you will need to install your Bat Caddy’s axle pin. There is a hole in your rear axle, and this is designated for a 7/8” metal pin that should have been included with your motor. We will need to hammer this pin into this hole provided. You will want to support the axle whilst doing this, I use an old motor for support, but you can use a 2 x 4, anything to support the axle and make sure the force of the hammer is going directly onto the pin, not the axle itself. I also use a metal pin or punch to do this, but you can accomplish this without.
Once your pin is installed, you will need to reinstall your sprocket from the faulty motor. Please note the instruction mentioned above for reference. There is a female groove in the back portion of the sprocket, and this is what will slide over your axle pin. You will put the sprocket on the axle until it is securely onto the pin.
Then, we should be good to go!
In order to provide our customers with the most accurate and in-depth information please read below some answers to the most frequently asked questions about electric golf caddies in general and Bat-Caddy in particular.
Why should I use an electric golf push cart vs. a regular push cart or a golf cart?
Bat-Caddy: Electric golf caddies provide you with a series of benefits, such as improved health and fitness, weight loss, lower handicap and a better overall golf experience, as well as economic benefits due to the saved rental cart fees. On Average a Bat-Caddy pays back for itself within one season considering a $15.00-$20.00 rental cart fee. The caddy basically gives you the experience to play like a Tour Professional, i.e. walking but not having to carry, push or pull and thus avoiding any strain or fatigue which will most definitely impact your golf game. The real question is why should I not use an electric golf caddy and continue to carry my bag or waste money on riding cart rental fees? Please also read our Product Benefits section on our website.
What is the difference between a remote controlled and a manually controlled motorized golf trolley?
Bat-Caddy: The remote controlled caddy can be operated via a handheld remote transmitter up to 100 yards distance. The manually controlled caddy is also power assisted but steering and speed control needs to be performed manually on the handle, so you will have to walk close to the caddy while operating it. Some of the manual carts have a semi-remote capability called "timed advanced function" whereby you can send the caddy a certain distance forward stopping automatically. The remote controlled caddy can also be manually operated via a seamless rheostat control on the handle. It especially comes in handy when walking off the fairway or after putting, because you don't have to walk back to your cart.
How do I know if a motorized golf push cart is not too complicated for me to operate and maintain?
An electric caddy does require some minimal technical understanding and affinity, as it is a rather sophisticated, yet easy to use electrical/mechanical device with moving and wear/consumable parts. Remote controlled carts require a little bit more involvement/touch and forward looking operation than the manual carts, as they will follow the topography of the course. Eventually, wear and consumable parts need to be replaced, so look for a supplier who has all parts in stock, offers technical support and is transparent in parts pricing. Our sincere advice is: if you don't know clockwise from counter clockwise, left from right, plus from a minus battery pole or cannot read instructions or expect pushing a button and the caddy will follow you automatically from the 1st tee to the 19th hole - Don't buy an electric golf caddy!
Will the golf cart follow me?
Bat-Caddy: No! The type of carts that follow you are not widely used anymore. The main disadvantage of the sensor based “Follow-Me” technology is, that it is rather cumbersome to use and often the contact between caddy and operator can be lost depending on walking speed and turning movements of the operator. Because the caddy is driving behind the operator, he/she might not even notice when the contact is lost. In addition one needs to constantly turn the system off and on when hitting a shot or walking to the green to make a putt, and/or switch between Follow-Me and remote function to retrieve them when done putting or going off the fairway. It’s more a reactive system compared to today's widely used proactive direct remote control technology which is more intuitive and easier to use. In summary: Sounds nice in theory but has issues in reality.
What is better? A rear wheel or a front wheel drive?
Front wheel driven caddies have some distinct disadvantages: Due to the motor being integrated into the front wheel there is additional weight which needs to be lifted when turning. Also the wheel spins when lifted, and the caddy tends to lose traction going uphill. It's also more difficult to repair. The rear wheel drive is definitely the way to go!
What kind of golf bag should I be using with an electric caddy? Can I use my current carry/stand bag?
Electric caddies are designed for standard cart bags. Carry bags with legs or uneven weight distribution are not very well suitable, as the legs will prevent the bag from being centered or properly affixed causing shifting during operation which will negatively impact the tracking of the cart. Hence, we recommend a standard cart bag with an even oval shape design, possibly with separate club compartments to prevent club shifting and noise, and plenty of pockets to optimize weight distribution in the bag/cart. Recommended dimensions are: 34.5" (minimum height) x 9" (width) x 11" depth. Our bag supports accommodate many different shapes and sizes but the above measurements are ideal dimensions. Bat-Caddy offers a cart bag in our online store.
What makes your caddies better than those of your competitors?
Bat-Caddy: Bat-Caddy has basically introduced this type of product to a broader audience in the US by lowering the price point and significantly widening the distribution through retailers. Our caddies offer a unique and superior combination and balance of performance features, design, quality, service and value. Bat-Caddy incorporates US and European design and Marketing/Distribution savvy with Asian manufacturing capabilities. Unlike some other brands our caddies are designed as motorized golf caddies from ground up and not just retrofitted push carts. Please refer to our Product Information section for detailed product features and benefits and don't hesitate to compare us to any of our competitors at any level. When purchasing an electric caddy please also always consider the after-sales service. According to many of our customers Bat-Caddy has the industry's best customer service, and response time (Testimonials). Our sincere advice: Never buy this kind of product from amateurs on auction sites other than from our authorized dealers, or from shady/new outfits without real physical addresses or service phone numbers. You want to make sure you get service and parts when you need it during the life of your caddy and warranty back-up as advertised. Check a company's track record, and if they actually have a real physical location. There are various "imitators" on the market who have tried to copy our caddies as well as Marketing strategy, but they are usually years behind and ship out of a "garage". Bat-Caddy is a well established company since 2004 with the appropriate technical and industry certifications required for this type of product, such as the FCC, IC in Canada. We have alliances with other world renowned caddy manufacturers to offer product in even the highest price caddy segments. We are considered the best value in the market with the broadest product offering and best customer service by our nationwide reputable dealers/retailers and consumers. That's why we continue to grow at an amazing pace, despite the current economic climate. We are a global company represented in the US, Canada, Europe and Asia with an array of reputable retailers representing our product line. Don't go for second best!
What are the practical/operational differences between the sealed lead acid and the lithium batteries?
Bat-Caddy: the fairly new and emerging lithium technology for golf carts offers a significantly higher power density, which means that much more power can be stored in a much smaller and lighter space. Practically that results in a much lighter and smaller battery with longer durability per charge as well as a much longer life time. Specifically, you can now replace a 12V 35Ah SLA battery on a remote controlled caddy with two motors usually running 27 holes per charge with a total lifetime of about 150 charges, with a 12V 20/21Ah Lithium battery running 36 holes per charge and a total lifetime of about 500 charges. This increases the number of rounds by a factor of 4 -5. This all while at the same time reducing the weight by 75% and the size of the battery by 50%+, so less handling and storage effort. Lastly, the absence of lead makes the lithium battery more environmentally friendly. The slight drawback is the still much higher price of the lithium battery, but economically that can be justified by the much better performance and higher convenience.
Can I retrofit my current sealed lead acid battery caddy or upgrade later from a SLA to a lithium?
Bat-Caddy: Yes. All our caddies are designed to operate with a 12V system compatible with both SLA and our special lithium chemistry battery. Other caddies are using a 24V lithium system which prevents the switch.
What is the USB port for?
Bat-Caddy: USB (Universal Serial Bus) is a worldwide industry standard for connection, communication and power supply of electronic devices. Most electronic gadgets are equipped with it nowadays, and on your caddy you can use it to plug in/charge a cell phone, GPS or any other electronic device. For more information about USB, please reference the Wikipedia page at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB.
How can I determine if I need to replace my Bat-Caddy battery?
There is no exact measurement of capacity with a chemical battery. You can only measure voltage and then estimate capacity based on measured voltage and how it performs in use. As a reference our new Lead Acid (SLA) batteries SLA battery fully charged should range between 13.3V to 13.6 V (±0.1). Our new Lithium fully charged should range between 14.4V to 14.6V(±0.1). As the battery is used and ages this maximum voltage will decrease. If your battery is slowing down at the end of a round, or not even making 18 holes it is time to replace the battery. To confirm this, re-charge the battery, then measure the voltage if it reads well below the range of a good battery; you need a new battery. Battery testers are available on the website - Multimeter for Battery Testing
How should I handle and maintain my sealed lead acid battery in order to get optimal performance and life time?
Please fully charge the battery BEFORE the first use: this can take 8 to 16 hours for the charger indicator light to change from red (charging) to green (charged). It is recommended to take the battery off the charger after the battery is charged, i.e. the charger light is green.
Subsequent charges of the battery: these can take from 3-8 hours, depending on load and course conditions, for the charger indicator light to turn from red (charging) to green (charged). It is recommended to take the battery off the charger after the battery is charged, i.e. the charger light is green.
Do not leave the battery on the charger for extended periods of time. Overcharging might damage the battery and will also will void the warranty.
Do not fully deplete your battery, charge after every 18 holes. Complete depletion will significantly shorten the life of the battery.
Do not secure the battery lead to the caddy with the silver battery lead screw. In case of a tip-over the battery cable should pull out to prevent damage.
Do not store the battery on concrete or other cold surfaces.
Do not store in an area that goes below freezing. During periods of inactivity, the battery should be fully recharged once every 4-6 weeks; this is a maintenance charge and should not take long. It is recommended to get a volt meter so you can measure the voltage in the battery. A new fully charged battery should read about 13.5V.
NOTE: There are times when a battery shows appropriate voltage in idle condition, yet the battery doesn't work. If this occurs, the battery should be retested under load.
How long does the battery last?
Bat-Caddy: Our batteries are rechargeable deep cycle (NOT car/motorcycle batteries) sealed lead acid batteries which must be maintained by you. They are rated to last on average for at least 27 holes or 6-7 hours of play per charge (anyone advertising longer operational functionality on the same ratings batteries is very likely overstating the continuous battery performance). Depending on the weight of your bag, topography of your course and the distance of travel they might last longer or shorter. However, we recommend to recharge the battery after every 18 holes or 5 hours of play for at least 5 hours, as complete drainage reduces the life time of a battery significantly! The overall life time for sealed lead acid and any other batteries used by any caddy OEM is dependent on a variety of factors, other than purely the number of charges, including but not limited to frequency between charges, duration of charge, level of drainage, idle time between usages, storage conditions and duration and overall shelf life. We usually predict a battery lasting anywhere between 120-180 charging cycles, if it is used frequently and according to instructions. Do not leave the battery on charger for extended periods of time and do not store them on cement of metal surfaces. We do cover our batteries 100% according to our published warranty policy, and any potential additional coverage is at our discretion.
Do I have to take the battery out of the battery carry case when charging?
Bat-Caddy: No. You can leave the battery in the case during charging or long term storage. The only time to take the battery out of the case is when the case is wet after rainy conditions or to replace the battery or bag.
To get maximum life/reliability out of your battery, here are some helpful hints:
IMPORTANT: STUDY AND FOLLOW ALL SAFETY HANDLING INSTRUCTIONS IN THE MANUAL!!
ONLY use the supplied or an especially dedicated lithium charger for your battery. Any other charger will damage your battery and void the warranty.
Please fully charge the battery BEFORE the first use: this can take 8 hours for the charger indicator light to change from red (charging) to green (charged). It is recommended to take the battery off the charger after the battery is charged, i.e. the charger light is green.
Subsequent charges of the battery: these can take from 3-8 hours. It is recommended to take the battery off the charger after the battery is charged, i.e. the charger light is green.
Do not fully deplete your battery, charge after every 18 holes. Complete depletion will significantly shorten the life of the battery and void the warranty.
Do not leave the battery on the charger for extended periods of time. Overcharging will void the warranty. It is recommended to charge the battery shortly before you play again, instead of right after you have played.
Do not secure the battery lead to the caddy with the silver battery lead screw. In case of a tip-over the battery cable should pull out to prevent damage to the plug socket.
Do not store the battery on concrete or other cold surfaces or in areas with freezing temperatures. A cool, dry place is the best way to store your battery (short & long term).
Do not expose the battery to excessive heat or direct sun for long periods of time or store it in hot areas (car trunks, garages etc). LI batteries do not like high temperatures.
Do not submerge the battery in water. The case is not sealed and battery will be damaged!
Do not expose or throw the battery into open fire. EXTREME FIRE HAZARD
Do not drop the battery to prevent damage to electronic battery management system
I read some negative product reviews on some public websites? How do you comment?
Bat-Caddy: First, product reviews have become a competitive weapon nowadays, so often these reviews can be "fabricated" by competitors. Often the case when a specific competitor is named. Also, we have a customer base of several 10,000 customers operating since 10 years, and 99%+ of our customers are very satisfied or even thrilled about the value and performance of our caddies. If a handful of disgruntled customers (less than 0.05%) are having an issue or problem, then this is a pretty good performance statistically. We have an overall return rate of under 1%. Usually the 99% of satisfied customers don’t take the time to write good reviews. Also, in many cases these issues are self-inflicted and stem from accidents caused by operator errors. Bumping the caddy into walls, curbs, overturning it at high speed, running it into sand traps, sprinkler wells, or other hazards, and similar stunts will very likely lead to damages. Like any other mechanical/electrical equipment, if you treat it right, it will return the favor. Operation of these electric caddies, especially the remote controlled ones, does require some practice and skill and in most of these cases people went out there and just crashed the cart. Our staff has been playing with these caddies since 10 years, and nobody has broken a single part yet. Like in life in general, "Common Sense" applies! However, in most of these cases we also take the caddy back for a full refund. We do not want, nor do we need unsatisfied customers. The same people also seem to think that our competitors caddies, who have mostly copied our carts, are different or better while even cheaper! Think again! Bat-Caddy is by far the market leader and even the creator of this industry in the US. We are represented by most major golf retailers and 100s of smaller outlets, and our design and Marketing strategy has been imitated and copied over and over, because we offer exceptional value. To think that our caddies are poorly designed seems to be a little naïve.
How do I operate my caddy properly?
Bat-Caddy: Common Sense applies! Electric caddies, even models with the Anti-Tip wheel, are 3-wheel mechanical vehicles susceptible to tipping over in certain situations. Turning at fast speeds, crossing steep side hill terrain, driving into potholes over bumps, roots, sprinkler heads or curbs, driving in steep uphill or downhill situations are all potential hazards that could cause your caddy to tip over, crash and damage the cart and/or your golf equipment. The general rule is NOT to go where it can be dangerous and, if in such situations guide your caddy manually and carefully. Never run your caddy over curbs, but assist it manually to prevent wheel damage or tipping. Learn the physical limits of your caddy before you drive it into challenging situations. Don't operate your cart in heavy rain or drive it through deep casual water. Electric and water don't mix! When you leave your caddy to make a putt or for other reasons, never leave it pointed towards a hazard such as water, bunkers or public streets etc. On occasion it can happen that you push a remote control button by accident (for example when stored in a pocket) and the caddy starts moving unintentionally in which case you don't want it to end up in water or other dangerous hazards or endanger others. Don't steer your caddy with the remote when on narrow cart paths, bridges, near hazards or other people, but rather guide it manually. An appropriate mix between remote and manual steering will give you the optimal performance. Again, common sense and preventive/defensive driving are the best policy to protect and enjoy your investment for many years.
Does my caddy have a brake?
Bat-Caddy: Our caddies (both remote and non-remote) are equipped with free-wheeling 12V DC motors which have the advantage that you can push your caddy freely even without power. This makes maneuvering in many standard situations on and off the golf course much easier, and you will never be stuck on the course, even if you lose power. This also means that the caddy will roll and accelerate downhill. In order to prevent this from happening, the caddy should be parked parallel to the decline, just like you would with a regular push cart. When going downhill we recommend holding onto the caddy to prevent excessive acceleration. All our remote controlled caddies do have a STOP button which will stop the caddy instantaneously. We recommend to avoid using this function at accelerated speeds going downhill, as excessive torque on the drivetrain components can be generated through the combination of weight and high speed.
What do the lights on the handle mean?
Bat-Caddy: The red, yellow and green LEDs on the handle indicate the level of charge of the battery. When the battery is fully charged they all should be lit. As the battery drains itself first the green, then yellow will go off. If only the red is on it's time to recharge.
My caddy has no power when I try to turn it on?
Bat-Caddy: Please check if all electrical connections are tight. Also check the fuse in the red cable of the battery leads within the battery carrying case. If broken please replace with a standard 30 Amp automotive fuse. (Newer models don't have a fuse)
My caddy tends to track to one side. What is the cause for that and what should I do?
Bat-Caddy: All caddies will follow the weight and slope. If the weight in your bag is unevenly distributed the caddy will always tend to track to that side. Make sure that the weight in your bag is distributed evenly and the bag sits straight on the supports and cannot shift. Please test the tracking of your caddy without the bag on even terrain. The tracking can be adjusted via the adjustment mechanism mounted to the front wheel on all X3 and X4 models. Please open the axle nut and the tracking eye rod located on the right side of the front wheel. Shift the wheel as needed and tighten the screws in reverse order. Don't over tighten the nuts. The wheel must be able to spin freely. Again during operation make sure the bag is positioned straight and cannot shift, and the weight in your bag is evenly distributed. Operate the caddy in a forward looking manner taking the topography and the slope into account. Occassional directional adjustments might be necessary.
Do caddies interfere with each other when playing with other Bat-Caddy carts?
Bat-Caddy: No. The remote controls have slightly different frequencies, so they don't interfere with each other.
My remote control loses connection at times. Am I doing something wrong?
Bat-Caddy: Remote operation interference can be caused by several reasons. Cell phone towers and strong alarm systems emitting radio waves can have a significant effect. Contrary to some people's belief residential homes along the golf course should not interfere with remote operation. Also, enclosing the strap antenna with your hand while operating the remote can cause loss of remote connection from as close as 5-10 yards. Please let the antenna freely hang in front of the remote to optimize reach and connection. Also, check your remote control batteries and test the remote for lose rattling parts inside (something might have come loose if the remote was dropped on a hard surface). Sometimes the remote also needs to be resynchronized with the caddy (see below). You can also lose connection if the distance between caddy and operator becomes too long. General advice: never operate the caddy too far from you, so that you can always reach it. Common sense applies! For any further assistance please contact one of our Service Centers.
I lost or replaced my remote control and just received a replacement. How do I reprogram or resynchronize the new unit?
Bat-Caddy: In order to resynchronize a new remote control you need to have the caddy under power (turned on) with the rheostat speed control in OFF position. Best to reboot, i.e. turn the caddy off and then back on. For 2010 and later models within 30 seconds of powering the caddy on (the controller is now searching for a new signal) point the remote towards the caddy a few feet away and press forward or reverse repeatedly, or in some cases continuously for about 10-20 seconds or until the caddy starts moving. If the caddy does not start moving within 30-45 seconds, release and repeat process from the beginning (reboot). Please make sure that the caddy is powered on during this procedure. For pre-2010 models expose the controller box in the battery tray by opening the plastic lid in the tray. Now push the green button on the side of control box while simultaneously pushing either the forward or reverse button repeatedly on the new remote transmitter for ca. 10 sec. We recommend to take the wheels off or jack up the caddy during synchronization to prevent the caddy from getting away. If you have problems with synchronization please contact one of our Service Centers. rest assured it ALWAYS works, so try a few times before you call.
I accidently drove my caddy into a water hazard, and it does not turn on anymore. What shall I do?
Bat-Caddy: Remove the caddy from the water as soon as possible! Disconnect the battery (do not use the On/Off switch) and take it out of the carry bag to dry off. Drain all water from the controller box and its compartment and quick dry with a towel. Completely let the controller dry out in a warm, dry place, possibly supported by a hair dryer. If the handle was submerged, open up the handle shell and dry out the handle circuit board, rheostat and wiring. This process should last about 1-2 days max. If your battery lead has a fuse box, check and possibly replace the fuse. Do not turn the caddy on until the drying process is complete. In many cases the caddy comes back to life after a while. If not, please contact one of our Service Center for assistance. General advice: when leaving your caddy behind, never leave it pointed to a water or other hazard but towards the open fairway. If near water or when crossing bridges, always handle your caddy in manual mode or be very close to it, so any operational mistake can be avoided.
I received my Bat-Caddy model and it has the free new integrated scorecard/umbrella holder accessory. How do I assemble it properly?
Bat-Caddy: Please refer to the assembly instructions in the box.
How do I attach the Bat-Caddy waiting seat?
The golf season is over and I am ready to store my Bat-Caddy? What is your advice?
Bat-Caddy: We recommend to clean the caddy using a damp cloth or brush for the wheel treads. DO NOT use a hose or power washer and keep moisture away from the electronics in the handle and controller box/compartment! Lubricate and protect the axles and wheel cores from oxidation with WD-40 or similar lubricant. Store in a dry, cool/non-freezing place. Give the battery a final full charge over night, unplug and store in a cool but non-freezing place. DO NOT leave the battery plugged into the caddy or charger! DO NOT leave the battery on a concrete or metal floor, but ideally place on a wooden shelf. If possible recharge the battery every 6-8 weeks. Recharge before first use in Spring, and you should be in great shape for the next season. Stay warm!
How do I synchronize my remote?
How do I replace the rear wheel axle pins?
Replacing the rear wheel axle pins can be accomplished using the following procedure and some basic tools/supplies.
(1) 1/8 inch (.125) hardened steel punch
(1) Solid Piece of Wood to Support Axle
#1) Remove the wheel from the axle to expose the axle pin (sprocket must also be removed on 4-Series caddies).
#2) Support the axle with a piece of wood to make sure the axle is not bent while driving out the pin.
#3) Using the hardened steel punch, hammer out the axle pin. Once the axle pin is over halfway out, you can use the replacement pin to punch out the rest of the way.
#4) Align the new pin so an equal amount is exposed on each side of the axle.
#5) Reattach the caddy wheel (reattach sprocket and wheel on 4-Series caddies).
For Technical Support please contact one of our Service Centers. All contact numbers and e-mails, including Sales & Marketing and Administration can be found on our website under Contact Us.